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Skincents Ingredient Glossary
Organic Algae Extract: In cosmetics, algae is used as a thickening and water-binding agent as well as an antioxidant. Rich in vitamins and minerals; algae conditions and hydrates the skin while it nourishes, rejuvenates, detoxifies and replenishes minerals. Irish moss and carrageenan (two popular forms of algae) contain proteins, vitamin A, sugar, starch, vitamin B1, iron, sodium, phosphorous, magnesium, copper and calcium. These are all useful as sources for skin care, either as emollients or antioxidants (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, February 2002, pages 840-845).
Algae Extract: See “Organic Algae Extract”
Allantoin: (Ureidohydantoin Comfrey) Allantoin is a skin softener and an anti-irritant, which inhibits allergic type responses. It is healing, moisturizing, and soothing. It is also a valuable cell-proliferating agent which stimulates healthy tissue formation. The FDA classifies allantoin as an effective “skin protectant,” so that when it is used in over-the-counter medications, it can help to stimulate the growth of new and healthy cell tissue as well as alleviate the symptoms of chapped, parched, dry, inflamed or irritated skin. It also finds its application in many baby-care products. Its most prominent application is as an effective anti-inflammatory agent—having a calming effect on your skin. As a skin-softener, allantoin can help restore elasticity and suppleness. It is considered safe, non-comedogenic, non-sensitizing and non-irritating.
Organic Aloe Vera Gel: Aloe vera has been proven to be an effective treatment for skin lesions and burns. It is a highly effective moisturizer and an anti-inflammatory. Recent research has proven that aloe plus essential oils is a more effective acne synergy than the use of either the aloe or the essential oils alone. We highly recommend the use of aloe vera gel in any skin treatment. Topical uses may include acne, sunburn, frostbite (it appears to stimulate blood circulation), shingles, alleviating the effects of radiation treatment, psoriasis, preventing scarring, rosacea, warts, wrinkles from aging, and eczema. For thousands of years aloe has been used as a "cure-all". Some sources say that aloe vera was the secret of Cleopatra's complexion.
Organic Aloe Vera Leaf Juice: (Aloe Barbadenis) Expressed from the aloe vera plant, this ingredient has been used for centuries. It has improved hydration, and is considered soothing and healing to all skin types. This plant is comprised of water, cellulose, minerals, vitamins, proteins, 20 amino acids and carbohydrates. Its active constituents actually speed healing by accelerating tissue repair and encouraging normal cell growth. These properties make it ideal for use in skin care and cosmetic preparation on sunburns, acne, dermatitis, and otherwise sensitive and irritated skin. It’s also recently been hailed for its anti-aging effect on skin.
Alpha Lipoic Acid: (Thiocitic Acid) Is often called the “universal antioxidant.” It is both fat and water soluble and can cross any membrane in the body including the blood-brain barrier. Consequently, alpha lipoic acid can protect the integrity of the cell membrane as well as offset cell stress. Alpha lipoic acid promotes mitochondrial activity to help keep your body and tissues young. It is also proven to shrink pores, reduce under eye puffiness, and erase fine lines and wrinkles, while improving circulation and brightening your overall complexion. When applied to the skin, this enzyme can be a very good antioxidant.
Alpha Tocopherol: (Vitamin E) See “D-Alpha Tocopherol”.
Antioxidant: Refers to the ability of a chemical or ingredient to counteract or block the damaging effects of free radical activity. These vitamins, minerals, and enzymes help protect our body from the formation of destructive, reactive molecules known as free radicals. Antioxidants such as vitamins A, C, and E, the mineral selenium, and other nutrients also act as free radicals, scavengers, neutralizing free radical properties. The term can also apply to a compound that prevents other compounds from oxidizing or becoming rancid.
Apricot Kernel Oil: An emollient oil pressed from the seeds of apricots, and similar to other non-fragrant plant oil.
Arnica Extract: Extract from the plant Arnica Montana.
Avocado Butter: Is obtained from the fruit of the Avocado tree (Persea Gratissima) which grows in sub-tropical regions of the world. Rich in vitamins A, C, and E, protein and amino acids, the butter is created through a unique hydrogenation process which yields a soft, greenish butter with mild odor and excellent melting properties which is suitable for skin care. May be used in all types of soap and toiletries to improved moisturization and soften rough, dry skin. It penetrates the skin deeply without leaving behind an oily residue and promotes the regeneration of scarred skin and conditions dry, flaky skin.
Avocado Oil: (Persea Gratissima) This oil is extracted directly from the dehydrated flesh of the avocado fruit, used for its lovely texture and softness on the skin. Easily absorbed by the skin, it is a good source of vitamins A, B, D & E, protein, lecithin, fatty acids, amino acids and sterols. Known to accelerate healing, recommended for chronic eczema and other skin disorders. One of the few vegetable oils containing protein, avocado oil penetrates the skin deeply without leaving an oily film on the skin. Promotes the regeneration of scarred skin. Softens and conditions dry, flaky skin and scalp. Highly compatible with human skin, this oils also offers some natural UV ray protection.
Banana Extract: (Musa Sapientum) A natural extract considered to have antioxidant properties (Source: Free Radical Research, February 2002, pages 217-233). It is said to contain essential vitamins and minerals that benefit the skin with moisturizing properties.
Benzoin Resin: (Styrax Benzoin Gum) Benzoe or benzoin gum is a balsam obtained from trees of the genus Styrax and produced mainly in Asiatic countries such as Indonesia, Sumatra, Java, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. It is used in perfumes, some kinds of incense, and medicine. Benzoin is often used in combination of other essential oils to slow their dispersion into the air. The Benzoin tree produces a white sap which becomes hard and brittle, and yellow in color. It is made up mainly of benzoic acid, benzoate and some vanilla. It is used in skin care for acne, eczema and psoriasis. It is also used as a preservative in food.
Bergamot Oil: (Citrus Bergamia) Considered an antiseptic and bacterial growth inhibitor. It is also considered good for oily and acne skin, and for seborrheic conditions. Bergamot has a wonderful fresh, sweet-fruity scent with a herbal/balsamic undertone. When inhaled, bergamot reduces anxiety, stress, and nervous tension, and helps alleviate depression. It also aids in relieving mental and emotional fatigue. It is added to skin care preparations for problem skin, acne eczema and psoriasis.
Beta-Carotene: A member of the carotenoid family. There are hundreds of carotenoids including lycopene and lutein. Beta-carotene is a precursors that helps form retinol (vitamin A). It is converted to vitamin A in the liver as needed. Topically, beta-carotene is a potentially good antioxidant and can reduce the effects of sun damage.
Brown Sugar: (Sucrose) An emollient, mild emulsifier, and humectant. It can be used in place of glycerin. This monosaccharide has a water-binding agent for skin.
Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride: Oily fatty acid made by combining glycerin with caprylic and capric acid. Sometimes called fractionated coconut oil, capric triglyceride is exceptionally light and non-greasy oil with very nice skin feel. It absorbs quickly and it is very compatible with the skin—nonsensitizing and nonallergenic. Caprylic / capric triglyceride is isolated from coconut oil; these triglycerides are parts (or fractions) of coconut oil, though it has very different properties from coconut oil. Considered a good emollient and thickening agent.
Carbomer: Derived from polymers and organic acids this thickening agent helps emulsifies and stabilize cosmetic formulations. The high clarity and unique texture they impart have led the way in the evolution of the gel product form. The benefits associated with carbomers include specific texture and formulation flow control, highly effective oil / water emulsion stabilization, and permanent suspension of insoluble or immiscible ingredients.
Centella Asiatica: An herb that may appear on labels as Asiatic acid, hydrocotyl, or gotu kola. It has anti-bacterial, anti-psoriatic; and wound-healing properties (Sources: Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, May-June 2000, pages 227-234; Phytomedicine, May 2001, pages 230-235; and Contact Dermatitis, October 1993, pages 175-179).
Cetearyl Alcohol: A mixture of fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil consisting predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. Used as emollients, thickeners, emulsifier, thickeners and carrying agents for other ingredients. It is not an irritant and is not related to SD alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
Ceteareth 20: Non-ionic ether of higher saturated fatty alcohols (cetyl/stearyl alcohol). This odorless, white powder dissolves in water & alcohol to form a colloid solution. It is used as a surfactant cleaning agent, a thickening agent as well as solubilizing agent. Because of its water-soluble properties, it is widely used as an emulsifying agent as well as for its wetting and detergency properties.
Chamomile Extract: (Anthemis Nobilis) Has been used since ancient times to treat problem due to its sedative and emollient properties. It is considered a softening agent for rough or irritated skin as well as anti-inflammatory and antiseptic. It is thought to be good for acne, allergies, boils, burns, cuts, dermatitis, earache, eczema, hair care, inflammations, insect bites, rashes, and sensitive skin. Since it has a very low toxicity, it’s good for children. Chamomile has been longed used to relax and cure stress through its aroma and flavor. This herb has research showing it to have anti-irritant, soothing, and antioxidant properties (Sources: www.herbmed.org ; European Journal of Drug Metabolism and Pharmacokinetics, October-December 1999, pages 303-308, and Plant Medica, October 1994, pages 410-413.)
Cinnamon Leaf Oil: (Cinnamomum Cassia) Can have antimicrobial properties (Source: Letters in Applied Microbiology, January 2002, pages 27-31). This strong, spicy-warm resinous aroma acts as a stimulant, and antiseptic. This natural essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the leaves, bark and twigs.
Citric Acid: Derived from citrus and used primarily to adjust the pH of products to prevent them from being too alkaline as well as preserving the integrity of the product. Citric acid is said to have antioxidant and toning properties. It is one of the alpha-hydroxy acids (naturally occurring in citrus fruits), and acts as a gentle exfoliator, skin brightener and wrinkle reducer.
Clove Extract: Obtained from stems and leaves of a small evergreen tree, clove extract is considered a powerful antiseptic and cicatrizant with a strong germicidal effect. This oil was traditionally used to clean small wounds.
Cocamidropropyl Betaine: Mild, effective cleanser from coconut and palm oils, gently cleans without stripping away natural oils. It is particularly effective in preparations where a high, creamy foam and good skin tolerance are desired.
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine: A mild plant-derived (coconut) surfactant and foaming agent. Considered an essential ingredient for the delivery of conditioning agents to the hair.
Cocoa Butter: Rich in the triglycerides of fatty acids made from the beans of the cacao tree, cocoa butter is a super emollient that protects chapped, dry skin. It softens pregnant skin and helps to erase stretch marks, aids in the treatment of skin irritations, and is used to soften and erase wrinkles on the neck, around the eyes and at the corners of the mouth. It is also helpful as a binder or thickener in natural cosmetics where chemical thickeners are not used.
Coconut Oil: (Cocos Nucifera) The flesh of the coconut is rich in emollient fat, and when pressed yields a white, sweetly scented, super moisturizing oil, which is a solid at room temperature but easily melts on the skin. The consistency of coconut oil helps to bind and emulsify natural formulations where no chemical emulsifiers are desirable. Usually blended with other fats, coconut oils is a fragrant oil popularly used in suntan products. It protects skin from the elements by forming a thin film which is not absorbed.
CoQ10: (Ubiquinone) CoEnzyme Q-10 (CoQ10) has been the subject of important research for the past 30 years. This bright orange nutrient reportedly plays a role in the body’s production of adenosine triphosphate (ATP), the basic energy component of the human cell. It also assists in neutralizing harmful free radicals in cells. In the normal aging process the body loses its ability to manufacture adequate amounts of CoQ10 which can decline by as much as 80 percent as you age. There is also research showing that sun exposure depletes the presence of CoQ10 in the skin (Source: Journal of Dermatological Science Supplement, August 2001, pages 1-4). A number of studies have recently been published demonstrating CoQ10 to have a positive effect on wrinkles (Sources: Biofactors, September 1999, pages 371-378; and Zeitschrift für Gerontologie und Geriatrie, April 1999, pages 83-88.)
Corn Cob Meal: (Zea Mays) Milled powder prepared from the cobs of Zea Mays (Indian corn). It is used as an abrasive, absorbent or thickener. It’s often added to blend to improve viscosity in aqueous products, and can be used in emulsions to improve the feel or decrease greasiness.
Cornstrach: Starch obtained from corn and sometimes used as an absorbent in cosmetics instead of talc.
D-Alpha Tocopherol: Considered the most important oil-soluble antioxidant and free-radical scavenger. Studies indicate that vitamin E performs function when applied topically. It is also a photoprotectant, and it helps protect the cellular membrane from free-radical damage. In addition, vitamin E serves a preservative function due to its ability to protect against oxidation. This benefits not only the skin, but the product in terms of longevity. As a moisturizer, vitamin E is well-absorbed through the skin, demonstrating a strong affinity with small blood vessels. It is also considered to improve the skin’s water-binding ability. In addition, vitamin E emulsions have been found to reduce transepidermal water loss, thereby improving the appearance of rough, dry and damaged skin. There is also evidence that vitamin E is effective in preventing irritation due to sun exposure.
Dehydroxanthan Gum: See “Xanthan Gum”.
Deionized Water: Water, a solvent and moisturizer, is the most common cosmetic ingredient. The deionizing process removed metallic irons, kills microorganisms through exposure to ultraviolet light, and uses a sub-micron further to further remove impurities or other components that could interfere with a product's stability and performance.
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate: Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate is a surfactant (cleansing agent) with an excellent toxicological profile. It is very mild, often finding its application in no-rinse formulas and baby-care products. Like many surfactants, disodium cocoamphodiacetate is originally derived from coconut.
DMAE: (Dimethylaminoethanol) Is a chemical naturally produced by the human brain. It is thought to be used by the body in converting choline to the neurotransmitter, acetycholine. Therefore, DMAE may aid in improving memory and preventing memory loss, and in keeping nerve cells healthy. Elsewhere in the body, acetylcholine helps maintain skin tone and firmness.The reality is DMAE may be the first agent proven in a study to have a positive effect on facial sag. It has been demonstrated that DMAE does cause some degree of skin tightening. It dramatically tightens, firms, and tones the neck, eyelids, and facial muscles, resulting in a lean, toned and youthful look. Studies indicate that the antioxidant DMAE can function as a cell membrane stabilizing agent, reinforcing the skin's foundation of collagen and elastin, and that DMAE actually makes cells live longer and helps cells avoid dehydrating. By no coincidence, levels of DMAE in our cells drop drastically as we age. DMAE may also aid in healing scars, including acne scars. It helps flush excess lipofuscin from skin cells, which works to reduce aging spots.
Echinacea Angustifolia: Described as having antiseptic and antibacterial properties helpful in treating skin lesions and in shortening healing time. It also has anti-itching and soothing properties when used in skin care products. The main constituents of both the oil and the resin derived from the wood or bark of the plant are inulin, inuloid, sucrose, sulose, betaine, 2 phytosterols, and fatty acid such as oleic, cerotic, lizolic and palmatic.
Ethylhexylglycerin: A preservative enhancer obtained from rose oil or other botanicals. It reduces interfacial tension on the cell walls of micro-organisms, promoting their more rapid destruction and a broader spectrum activity.
Evening Primrose Oil: Can have anti-inflammatory and emollient benefits for the skin (Sources: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, January-February 2002, pages 20-25; and Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, September 2001, pages 4502-4507).
Geranium Oil: (Geranium Maculatum) Obtained by steam distillation from the entire plant, the genanium oil’s botanical properties are described as refreshening, anti-irritant, mildly tonic, and astringent. Its beneficial skin care and cosmetic properties are numerous and powerful: cell regeneration, tissue repair, toning of skin tissue, oil and sebum regulation. It is astringent and antiseptic, and makes an excellent skin care treatment for acne, eczema and other skin inflammations, balances oils and dry skin, and works wonderfully to reduce cellulite deposits.
Ginger Extract: See “Panax Ginseng Extract”.
Ginger Root Oil: (Zinger Officinale) Native to Asia but cultivated in many parts of the tropics, Hippocrates used ginger as a medicine. Obtained from the dried rhizomes of Zingiber officinale it is used in flavoring.
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract: (Zinger Officinale) Research shows this potent antioxidant helps improve blood flow. (Sources: Medical Hypotheses, March 2006, pages 1152-1156; Journal of Burn Care and Rehabilitation, November-December 2005, pages 515-524; and Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, February 2005, pages 287-295 and Plant Medica, November 2004, pages 1052-1057).
Glycerin: Mostly derived from vegetable oils or sugars, glycerin is perhaps the most common humectant (or water-binding agent) used in skin care; humectants are substances that attract water to the skin and help hold it there. It is extremely effective at helping skin retain its moisture content, which means it not only helps with dry skin conditions but also with softening and smoothing the skin and helping the skin look and function better overall. This substance also keeps water away from bacteria so they cannot live. By using this substance, we are able to avoid chemical preservatives such as parabens that are used as antimicrobials. Glycerin is considered noncomedogenic, nonallergenic, and nonsensitizing. Because it is safely noncomedogenic as well as non-greasy, glycerin is a great, light moisturizer for acne-prone skin types and for humid weather conditions. There is also research indicating the presence of glycerin in the intercellular layer helps other skin lipids do their job better (Sources: American Journal of Contact Dermatitis, September 2000, pages 165-169, and Acta Dermato-Vernereologica, November 1999, pages 418-421)
Glyceryl Stearate: An emulsifier derived from vegetable glycerin (palm kernel or soy oil); glyceryl stearate is a mixture of mono, di and triglycerides of palmitic and stearic acid and contains sodium and potassium. This emollient is often used in skin care products to achieve a luminescent or opalescent appearance. Glyceryl stearate is also a solvent, humectant and consistency regulator—emulsifying natural oils in water-in-oil or oil-in-water formulations.
Glycine: An amino acid used as a texturizer in cosmetic formulations. It makes up approximately 30 percent of the collagen molecule.
Grapefruit Extract: (Citrus Grandis) The extract of the seeds of the grapefruit.
Grapeseed Extract: (Vitis vinifera) Grapeseed extract contains proanthocycanidins which are the most beneficial flavonoids (which exist in many plants and are potent in red wine). This herb is effective against free radicals, and since grapeseed extract contains vitamin E it helps in neutralizing the iron and oxygen of free radicals which attack lipids (fat)
Green Tea Extract: (Camellia Sinensis) An anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, antibacterial and antioxidant (protects from free-radical activity). This natural astringent is effective in treating troubled skin and breakouts. Scientific research has shown how the positive effects of green tea are a result of the polyphenols, also called tannis, these compounds are potent antioxidants. When applied topically as an addition to skin care and cosmetic creams and lotions, green tea makes use of these same antioxidant properties to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation and environmental stress and pollution. It is excellent for all skin types as a preventative treatment against free radicals and helps fight the various oxidative stressors (air, UV light, smoke, etc) that cause degenerating of the skin and damage to skin cells. Besides being one of the strongest antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents, green tea has also been shown to have anti-carcinogenic as well as cell-proliferating properties. It contains an impressive amount of skin nourishing ingredients including vitamin E, C and B.
Honey: Used as a coloring, flavoring, and an emollient in cosmetics. The common, sweet, viscous material taken from the nectar of flowers and manufactured in the sacs of various kinds of bees. The flavor and color depend upon the plants from which it was taken. Its use in cosmetics is centuries old and can be traced back to at least ancient Egypt and Cleopatra. Honey is composed of a variety of sugars, wax, and other substances, including citric, malic, formic, and lactic acids; beta carotene, enzymes; amino acids and vitamins.
Irish Moss Extract: (Chondrus Crispus) Is a reddish-brown perennial seaweed common at low tide on all the shores of the North Atlantic, especially Ireland. Rich in lipids, protids, glucids, vitamins (A, B1. B2, B3, B5, B12, C, D and E), macro minerals (iodine, calcium, iron, phosphorous, sodium, potassium, zinc, nitrogen, copper, chlorine, magnesium and manganese), trace minerals (lithium, silicon, bromaine, titanium, and cobalt), amino acids, folic acids. It has been found to be stimulating, revitalizing, and nourishing to the skin due to its iodine and sulfur content which also gives it anti-inflammatory and disinfectant properties. Its nourishing properties are attributed to its ability to bind with protein and form a protective gel on the skin’s surface, reducing moisture loss due to evaporation.
Japanese Green Tea: When applied topically, Japanese green tea has been shown to act as an anti-inflammatory as well as to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation, environmental stress and pollution.
Jojoba Beads: Composed of free flowing microspheres produced from hydrogenated jojoba oil. These small spherical particles usually contain tocopherols (vitamin E) and sometimes contain pigments. Jojoba beads are used as gentle, yet effective exfoliative particles in "scrub" and "peeling" formulations.
Organic Jojoba Oil: (Simmondsia Chinensis) Emollient oil similar to other non-fragrant plant oils. This moisturizer was traditionally held in high regard by Native Americans of the Sonora Desert for its cosmetic properties. Jojoba oil reduces transepidermal water loss without completely blocking the transportation of water vapor and gases, providing the skin with suppleness and softness. It addition it gives cosmetic products excellent spreadability and lubricity. Jojoba is a naturally occurring ester that absorbs quickly into the skin.
Kaolin (Colloidal Clay): (Lamanaria Digitata) Clay from Southeast China used to absorb unwanted oils and the body’s impurities. Considered for thousands of years to be an excellent body cleanser, this fine, mineral-rich, natural clay deep cleans and purifies. Its excellent absorbent, tightening and toning properties make it valuable for face mask.
L-Ascorbic Acid: (Vitamin C) L-Ascorbic acid is thought to prevent collagen breakdown and help combat the signs of aging. As an antioxidant, it is believed to remove the free radical that cells produce (Sources: Advances in Experimental Medicine and Biology, 2002, number 505, pages 113-122; and Journal of Investigative Dermatology, February 2002, pages 372-379). Free radicals have been associated with skin cancer and premature skin aging due to sun exposure. Some experts believe antioxidants are the most vital weapons in the fight against aging. Free radicals turn the oil of our skin rancid which damages the collagen.
Collagen is the protein fibers that serve as the building blocks of our skin. Antioxidants are used in skin care and cosmetic products to neutralize free radicals before they ravage the skin. Some studies have shown that topical vitamin C provides additional protection against the harmful effects of the sun.
Laminaria Extract: The most prized seaweed for its nutritional wealth is laminaria. These noble plants reign in the deep waters (30-40 feet) off the north coast of Brittany. The laminarias are 8-12 feet in length from the brown algae family and are rich in minerals, trace elements and beta-carotenes.
Lavandin Oil: The essential oil of the hybrid lavender plant lavandula hybrida used in cosmetics as a fragrant ingredient. Its irritant potential for skin is similar to lavender oil and camphor.
Lavandula All Plant Essence: See “Lavandin Oil”.
Lavender Extract: Primarily a fragrant ingredient, though it may have anti bacterial properties.
Lavender French: Has sedative and antiseptic properties—its penetrating, herbaceous, and clean fragrance blends well with other extract. It relieves and heals skin irritations (abscess, acne, dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis), is good for burns, sunburns, wounds and insect bites and is believed to reduce inflammation in arthritis and rheumatism.
Lavender Oil: (Lavandula Angustifolia) Lavender’s characteristic sweet floral/herbal scent is well known and easily recognizable. Its numerous beneficial properties make it a very worthwhile additive in skin care, cosmetic, and aromatherapy preparations. First recognized for its potent cell regeneration and repair capabilities, lavender essential oil was used as a healing substance for wounds and burns. Its active components work to increase cellular activity and prevent cell death. Its powerfully antiseptic, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal, and also works to regulate the production of sebum.
Licorice Extract: Has anti-inflammatory properties (Source: Healthnotes Review of Complementary and Integrative Medicine, www.healthwell.com/healthnotes/herb/.)
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate: A thickener with texture-modification and emulsion-stabilizing abilities, magnesium aluminum silicate is noncomedogenic and nontoxic, and acts as an astringent. This is refined and purified smecite clay, occurs abundantly in nature and is widely used in combination with various ingredients as a powder. It is noncomedogenic and nontoxic.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: This form of vitamin C is considered stable and an effective antioxidant for skin (Sources: Photochemistry and Photobiology, June 1998, pages 669-675; and Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, March 1997, pages 795-801). It is reported to be equally as effective as vitamin C in regulating collagen biosythensis, and as an antioxidant.
Mango Butter: (Mangifera Indica) Mango butter is another tropical butter that has a similar composition to shea and cocoa, however the fatty acid content profile is slightly different and enhances the spectrum of natural EFAs (essential fatty acids), antioxidants and vitamins. It smells sweet and nutty in its pure form, generally has a warm creamy color and is solid at room temperature. It also melts at body temperature or upon contact with skin and disperses smoothly, providing a protective, emollient layer. Due to its high in unsaponifiables levels, mango butter has excellent emollient properties, high oxidative ability, as well as wound healing and regenerative activity.
Matricaria Flower Extract: (Camomillia) This herb has shown to have anti-irritant, soothing and antioxidant properties (Sources: www.herbmed.org; European Journal of Drug Metabolism and Pharmacokinetics, October-December 1999, pages 303-308; and Planta Medica, October 1994, pages
410-413.)
Mojave Extract: (Yucca Aloifolia) The saponins from yucca are the main medicinal agents in the plant. They have both a water-soluble and fat-soluble end and therefore act like a soap. There is also some belief that yucca saponins block release of toxins that inhibit the formation of cartilage which can mean good news for patients with osteoarthritis and rheumatoid arthritis.
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-8; Myristoyl Pentapeptide-11: Are a family of peptides that stimulate collagen production.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4: Is clinically proven to dramatically reduce the number and depth of wrinkles, as well as support the collagen/skin matrix and encourage the skin to produce new cells. These peptides have been shown to be so effective at turning back the visual signs of aging that their challenging botox and retinol for position in the market place. Need proof of their effectiveness? Look at the ingredient lists of some of your national brands like Olay and Strivectin clearly they noticed the results of a 2002 clinical study by Johnson and Johnson which reported an up to a 90 percent reduction in the appearance of wrinkles, 80 percent improvement in smoothness, 76 percent improvement in suppleness and a full 92 percent moisturization increase.
Panax Ginseng extract: From a family of herbs native to Asia, this extract helps improve circulation and is especially beneficial to aging skin. When applied topically, ginseng has anti-inflammatory properties, and will activate cell metabolism and prolong the life span of human cells. It also stimulates the biosynthesis of proteins, RNA and lipids making it a valuable additive to anti-aging creams and lotions.
Panthenol: Pro-vitamin B5 improves and increase the moisture-retention capacity of the skin which allows dry skin to stay supple and elastic longer. It is anti-inflammatory and anti-itching, stimulates skin regeneration, and helps small wounds heal better.
Phenoxythanol: This plant-based non-drying alcohol is considered one of the least irritating cosmetic preservers with none of the controversial side effects of parabens. It provides a broad spectrum of anti-microbial activity against both gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria, as well as yeasts and molds. It is soluble and effective. More importantly, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert panel concludes that it is safe as a cosmetic ingredient as currently used.
Pine Bark Extract: Is used as an antiseptic and stimulant.
Polysorbate 20: Is a fatty acid used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. As a fatty acid, it can help supplement the skin’s intercellular matrix.
Polysorbate 60: Is a fatty acid used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. Fatty acids are a natural components of skin and are components of a complex mixture that makes up the outermost layer protecting the body against oxidative damage (Sources: Free Radical Research, April 2002, pages 471-477; and Journal of Lipid Research, May 2002, pages 794-804). Fatty acids can help supplement the skin’s intercellular matrix.
Potassium Sorbate: Is the potassium salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring organic acid that has been used extensively as a fungistatic agent for foods. Sorbic acid was first discovered in the Mountain Ash Tree. When dissolved in water, potassium sorbate ionizes to from sorbic acid which is effective against yeast, molds, and select bacteria, and is widely used at various levels in the cosmetics and food industries.
Retinyl Palmitate: (Vitamin A) It is a combination of pure vitamin A and palmitic acid. There is research showing it to be effective as an antioxidant and skin-cell regulator (Sources: European Journal of Medical Research, September 2001, pages 391-398; and Journal of Investigative Dermatology, September 1997, pages 301-305).
Rose Hips Oil: (Rose Canina) A good emollient oil that has antioxidant properties (Sources: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, March 2000, pages 825-828; and Journal of Nutrition, March 2002, pages 461-471,)
Rosemary Oil: (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Rosemary oil is an astringent and antiseptic, clearing and toning to the skin and scalp. This oil stimulates cell renewal, and in beauty products, is used to clean acne and blemishes. In addition, it can reduce the appearance of broken capillaries and varicose veins, and it stimulates and improves skin circulation and metabolism.
Rosewood Essential Oil: Fragrant oil derived from Aniba Rosaeodora.
Safflower Oil: (Cathamus Tinctorius) A carrier oil from sunflower seeds, consists primarily of linoleic acid triglycerides. This nutritive oil high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, vitamins and minerals soothes bruises and irritations, and helps nourish, protect and firm skin. It also works as a natural lubricant to moisturize the skin.
Organic Sea Kelp Extract: (Macrocystis Pyrifera) Is a species of marine algae found along the Pacific coast of North America from central California to Baja, California. Kelp has long been used in natural skin products. It contains a striking combination of healthy vitamins, minerals and amino acids, including iodine, which has important cleansing properties for the skin. Kelp also has been found to have anti-inflammatory properties that work to prevent your skin from growing rough and red.
Sea Lettuce Extract: (Ulva Lactuca) This seaweed grows in the Brehat archipelago (Brittany – France). It protects elastin and collagen, and stimulates cellular respiration. In studies ulva lactuca has shown that it reduces deep wrinkles by an average 23 percent! It also has emollient and humectant properties and contains 10 times more vitamin C than oranges, and twice the amount of Vitamin A of cabbage. Sea lettuce also has some anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties for skin (Source: Phytotherapy Research, pages 641-643).
Shea Butter: (Butyrosperum Parkii) The natural fat obtained from the fruit of the Karite tree helps protects the skin from dehydration and other climatic influences. It also restores skin suppleness, increases moisturization, improves elasticity retention, assists cellular regeneration, and can improve the appearance of dry, irritated skin. Rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins A and E, shea butter heals, soothes, and protects the skin from environmental damage. Safe for even sensitive, fragile skin, it is a superb, easily-absorbed emollient. Shea butter has a high content of unsaponifiable and cinnamic esters, which have antimicrobial and moisturizing properties and provide protection from the UV rays of the sun. These unsaponifiables (plant steroids or sterolins) soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin, and can reduce scars.
Soapbark Extract: (Quillaja Saponaria) This natural surfactant is used for its cleansing properties.
Soapwart Extract: (Saponaria Officinalis) Soapwart extract is derived from a plant, providing detergent cleansing properties. There is some research showing it to have antiviral and antibacterial properties (Sources: Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, May 1997, pages 129-132; and Phytotherapy Research, 1990, volume 4, pages 97-100).
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate: Often derived from coconuts, this ingredient is primarily used as a detergent cleansing agent.
Sodium Carbomer: See “Carbomer”.
Sodium Chloride: (Purified Salt) This ingredient acts as a natural preservative, is used primarily as a binding agent in skin care products and occasionally employed as an abrasive in scrub products. Its natural cleansing, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and astringent properties are beneficial in skin solution.
Sodium Hyaluronate: One of the most expensive raw materials in cosmetics. It is extracted from natural substances by means of a biological process. Hyaluronic acid is a valuable active ingredient in cosmetics, which regulates the moisture balance of the skin. It is marked by an extremely high capacity to retain moisture. This is higher than for any other substance known, and remains unchallenged even in low humidity which is particularly important since the skin tends to dry out in an atmosphere of low humidity. Because it is a large molecule, sodium hyaluronate does not penetrate deeply. Instead, it forms a highly moisture-retaining film on the skin, which is permeable to light and air. It is invisible. It is not sticky and it in no way obstructs the skins ability to breathe, making the skin more smooth and supple.
Sodium Myreth Sulfate: A mild sudsing agent derived from coconuts.
Sodium PCA: PCA stands for pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. As children, our skin possesses an abundant supply of this remarkable compound. This substance, in addition to keeping our skin soft and wrinkle-free actually serves to chemically attract water into the skin from the surrounding air. But as we age, the level of sodium PCA drops 50 percent or more! This high-performance humectant is derived from amino acids. It is considered a noncomedogenic, nonallergenic raw material and is recommended for dry, delicate and sensitive skin.
Sorbitan Stearate: Used to thicken and stabilize cosmetic formulations. The CIR Expert Panel considers it safe as presently used in cosmetic formulations.
Sorbitol: A humectant (attracts and holds moisture) that’s derived from plums, cherries and seaweed. This hydrating ingredient helps maintain optimal moisture levels and provides a velvety feel to the skin.
SoyAmide DEA: A soothing ingredient derived from soybeans.
Organic Spirulina (Spirulina Maxima) Extract: Obtained from blue-green algae, it contains 65 percent protein and all essential amino acids. Spirulina is a concentrated source of nutrients including chlorophyll, beta-carotene, high levels of B-complex vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids (including gamma linoleic) and omega-3 fatty acids and iron. Spirulina may enhance disease resistance and inhibit allergic reactions.
Stearic Acid: An emulsifier and thickening agent found in many vegetable fats, it occurs naturally in butter acids, tallow, cascarilla bark and other fats and oils. When a vegetable oil molecule is split in half, glycerin and fatty acids are the result. They fatty acids are reacted with an emulsifier to enable oils to be dispersed through a water base to form a cream or lotion that does not separate. In addition, stearic acid soothes and softens.
Stearyl Alcohol: Used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, as an anti-foam ingredient and a lubricant. Derived from stearic acid (from vegetable fatty acids), stearyl alcohol soothes, softens and emulsifies. This fatty alcohol is used as an emollient and helps keep the other ingredients in the formulation intact.
Sucrose: (Sugar) A crystalline disaccharise obtained from the sugar cane, the sugar beet, and sorghum.
Sunflower Oil: (Helianthus annus) This very light oil is obtained from milling sunflower seeds. It is rich in both vitamins A and E, and is very high in essential fatty acids—helping to moisturize, regenerate and condition the skin. Mainly used in products for mature, sensitive, dry and damaged skin, sunflower oil is one of the best oil available for helping strengthen the skin’s barrier and for moisturizing acne-prone skin. The skin’s barrier and its ability to repair that barrier when it is disrupted are very important in helping the skin maintain good general health and function overall, including decreasing sensitivity, increasing the ability to ward off infection, and maintaining the ability to heal. Skin with good barrier function works better and looks more even, smooth and healthy. Because of its chemical composition, sunflower oil when applied topically has been shown to be extremely effective at helping and encouraging the skin to maintain that function.
Sweet Almond Oil: (Pramas Amygdalus Dulcis) Serves as a carrier providing elegant skin feel and promoting spreadability. It contains vitamins A, B1, B2, and B6, a tiny amount of E, and it also has a rich concentration of oleic and linoleic essential fatty acids. It is the triglyceride oil (vegetable oil) derived from almonds, and it helps to smooth, soften and protect. Ideal in the treatment of very dry and chapped skin; it is an excellent emollient (softening and soothing to the skin) and also helps the skin to balance its loss and absorption of moisture. It is known for its mildness, has excellent shelf life, and imparts a soft feel to creams and lotions. It has a similar make-up to our skin’s natural sebum (which is the oil produced by the skin to protect it) and it is easily absorbed. Its nutritional profile includes glucosides, minerals, vitamins and proteins.
Sweet Orange Oil: (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis) Sweet orange oil contains flavonoids and vitamins A, B, C and E. In skin preparations, orange oil reduces puffiness and discourages dry, wrinkled skin. The peel is used as a natural exfoliator and both the oil and the peel are used to stimulate circulation, and clear blemishes.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: A stable from of vitamin C.
Titanium Dioxide: Inert earth mineral used as a thickening, whitening, lubricating, and sunscreen ingredient in cosmetics. It protects from UVA and UVB radiation and is considered to have no risk of skin irritation (Sources:www.photodermatology./com/sunprotection.htm; and Skin Therapy Letter, 1997, volume 2, number 5).
Tocopheryl Acetate: (Vitamin C) This vitamin has antioxidant and moisturizing qualities. As a powerful antioxidant, vitamin E slows the degeneration of skin cells, and promotes cellular renewal, skin elasticity and healing. This natural vitamin is processed so that deterioration is minimized (pure, unprocessed vitamin E degrades quickly in products. Vitamin E is essential for maintaining the activities of enzymes in the cells. Studies have indicated the acetate version of vitamin E is also bioavailable and protective for skin (Source: Journal of Cosmetic Science, January-February 2001, pages 35-50). Pointing to the significance of vitamin E for skin is an article in the Journal of Molecular Medicine (January 1995, pages 7-17), which states: “More than other tissues, the skin is exposed to numerous environmental, chemical and physical agents such as ultraviolet light causing oxidative stress (free-radical damage). In the skin, this results in several short-and long-term adverse effects such as erythema (redness) edema (swelling), skin thickening, wrinkling, and increased incidence of skin cancer … Vitamin E is the major naturally occurring lipid soluble antioxidant protecting skin from the adverse effects of oxidative stress including photo-aging (sun damage). Many studies document that vitamin E occupies a central position as a highly effective antioxidant, thereby providing possibilities to decrease the frequency and severity of pathological events in the skin.”
Tocotrienols: Super-potent forms of vitamin E that are considered stable and powerful antioxidants. There is some research showing tocotrienols to be more potent that other forms of vitamin E for antioxidant activity (Source: Journal of Nutrition, February 2001, pages 369S-373S).
Vanilla Extract: (Vanilla Planifolia) Used primarily as a fragrance and flavoring agent. The vanilla plant is a source of catechins (also known as polyphenols), which exhibit antioxidant activity and serve as anti-inflammatory agents (Source: Drugs Experimental Clinical Research, 2004; 30(1):1-10).
Walnut Shell Extract: (Juglans Regia) This extract is thought to have antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Nutrition, November 2001, pages 2837-2842).
Wheat Germ Oil: This emollient plant oil is similar to all non-fragrant plant oils.
White Grapefruit Peel Oil: (Citruc Grandis) White grapefruit peel oil is an essential oil with a light and fresh aroma expressed from the peel of the fruit. High in vitamins, it has anti-inflammatory properties, and helps release excess water in the skin’s tissues. It also has a very beneficial effect on congested, oily skin and acne.
White Tea Leaf Extract: (Camelia Sinensis) There is research showing white and green teas to have the highest concentration of antioxidant properties (via their polyphenol and flavonoid content) of all teas. It appears that white and green tea share similar amounts of polyphenol epigallocatechin-gallate (EGCG), which is the tea’s main antioxidant. The conclusion drawn is that white and green tea have nearly identical antioxidant activity (Source: Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, Volume 296, Issue 3, August 23, 2002, pages 584-588).
Xanthan Gum: A natural sugar polymer (gum) found on the foliage of leafy green plants. It gives a lovely skin feel and complements the flax gels and other plant gels. As a natural thickener, this food grade material is edible and often used to thicken ice cream and salad dressing.
Ylang-Ylang Essential Oil: Fragrant oil used in skin solutions.
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